ABOUT LLAMAS & ALPACAS
Alpacas and Llamas are related animals in the camelid family. They are closely enough related that they can cross. The offspring of this crossing is called a Mixti (Llama dam and Alpaca Sire, pronounced “misty”) or Juarisco (Llama sire & Alpaca dam) .
Llamas are large animals used mainly as guard animals in the US, though their use in South America where they originated was mainly as pack animals. The fiber of Llamas can be used but it is generally coarse and not all need to be shorn every year. There are fiber Llamas that have been selected for longer finer fiber, but these are the exception. Nevertheless for their comfort many should be shorn every year or every other year.
Alpacas come in a wide range of sizes, though generally smaller than Llamas. They have been bred mainly for their fiber, though many people keep them for grazing and for their wonderful manure, which is “cold” and doesn’t require composting before use. Both Llamas and alpacas tend to eliminate in the same spot making it easy to gather their manure for use.
Alpacas come in two main breeds. The Suri alpaca has long silky fiber and the Huacaya (wa-KAI-ya) alpaca has fluffy fiber, they are sometime called teddy bears. Within these two groups there is a wide range of fiber quality.
Most alpacas grow enough fiber that they should be shorn once a year. Some llamas also grow enough fiber to be shorn once a year, but many can skip a year or two between clippings. If you live in an area where summer temperatures are regularly above 80 degrees, shearing is essential for the comfort of the animals, which originate from cold mountainous areas.
CATCHING A CAMELID
In order to shear you must be able to catch and lead your animals. The more you handle them during the year, the easier this will be. But even if you only catch them once a year for shearing, this process should not be stressful for animals or owners and can be made easier with a few small tricks and tips.
Train your animals to come to grain feed (but don’t over feed). Llama chow is best, but any stock pellet is acceptable and one cup per day per animal is enough. If you do not feed a small amount of high energy feed year round, then you must start training your animals to it a few weeks before you want to catch them. Put the feed inside the pen you want to catch them in and let them find it. Feed consistently at the same time daily until they begin to learn the pattern. Once they consistently come to the pen for the feed, practice closing them in. Additionally practice coming into the pen with them and getting them comfortable with your presence. From there you can practice catching and haltering them.
Most Llamas and alpacas are easily corralled with a bright thick rope, which they will identify as a fence. With three people, one at each end of the rope and one in the middle you can create a moveable corrale to push your camelid into a corner where they will be more easily caught.
Be a calm dominant peer, not a challenger. Both Llamas and alpacas experience face-to-face contact as a potential challenge, which will stimulate the fight or flight mechanism, making it harder to catch them. Always approach from the side and loop your arm around the convenient handle that is the neck. Once your arm is looped around the neck it should be relatively easy to put on a halter.
A PROPERLY FITTING HALTER IS ESSENTIAL
Use the right halter. I cannot stress enough how essential a properly fitted halter is. Camelids are semi-obligate nose breathers. An improperly fitted halter can block the air passage and this will send them into a state of panic. Most halters from feed stores, even if they claim to be for alpacas and llamas are not right. Halters should fit snugly and the upper band should fall on the bone near the eye. If you have any doubts at all, please just go ahead and order the Zephyr harnesses from Camelid Dynamics, they are developed specifically for Camelids. Llamaproducts.com. also carries appropriate halters and other camelid specific products. As well, every camelid owner should take the time to read this extensive article that describes proper fit of halters.
LEADING
Once the halter is on you then need to move the animal. Cinch you hand up close under the chin to lead, rather than pulling from a long distance. A second person can tap the hips or place their body in contact with the barrel of the animal to move them. Don’t be afraid. Be firm. There is a kick zone that is in about a 45 degree line from the back legs, if you stay out of this zone there is no way you can be kicked. In general the more of your body you use (hips, thighs, your full side) the more calming and affirming it feels for the animal. If the animal starts to kush (lie down and pull their legs under them) the person on the head can grab and hold one front leg and this will keep them upright and moving. If the do kush and can’t be moved it is far better to sling a beach towel under the belly and have two people lift from either side than to drag them by their head. In worst case scenario, tether them when they have kushed and wait for them to stand again.
I hope this article has been helpful in setting you on track to be able to handle your animals safely and effectively.